Third Time Is the Charm

It’s my third serious attempt to master Ukrainian blood sausage using local ingredients. Every time I slightly change the approach with a better understanding of what and why I am doing with every step.

В последние годы появились друзья из регионов Украины, в которых я мечтала побывать. Они меня вдохновляют и помогают знаниями, воспоминаниями, замечаниями. На этом витке с кровянкой в игру вступили ещё и польские соседи-фермеры. Потому что купить качественные свиные кровь, голову, нутряной жир (inner fat), спинной жир (fatback) в штатах — задача непростая. Теперь я максимально близко подошла к настоящему деревенскому рецепту.

Первая проба (2012) — МОЯ кровяная колбаса

Вторая проба (2015) — Черная фуагра / Кровяная колбаса / Черный пудинг

Where to Get Ingredients (ATX)

Terra Purezza. Learn about this unique farm and the pastured heritage pork they produce. It’s delicious!

Salt & Time. This butcher shop features fresh cut meats from sustainable Texas ranches. Upon request, they can deliver less common cuts and offal products.

To get fresh pork head, blood, back fat, and inner fat needed for the recipe, contact customer service in advance. It will take time for either the farm or the butcher shop to find and process the right pig for your recipe.

Roasted Pig Head
Roasted Pig Head

Notes About American Ingredients

  1. Кровь продают замороженной. В составе 1.5-2% соль, 48% вода, 50% кровь. Размораживать в холодильнике 6-8 часов. В размороженном виде выглядит как желе или сгустки желе в жидкости. 
  2. Цена свиной головы у рекомендуемых мной бизнесов $40-50. Перед приготовлением голову нужно доводить — местами скоблить, местами опаливать, и мыть. Готовить голову low and slow, 8-10 часов на низких темепературах. Можно запечь завернутой в фольгу (2 часа 400F + 8 часов 275F), можно сварить (8 часов). 
  3. Приготовленную голову разбирают на мясо, жир, кожу, кости. Если голову запекать, то кожа получается сухая и хрустящая. Чтобы сделать ее мягкой, с нее нужно соскоблить жир и сварить из нее и нескольких костей и составов бульон (например, 1 час в Instant Pot).
  4. В бульоне сварить гречку. Buckwheat basic recipe.
  5. В стопленном жире карамелизовать лук. Сладкий Техасский лук здесь прекрасен.
  6. Для гладкой текстуры использовать мощный блендер/food processor (у меня Robot Coupe Blixer) чтобы превратить в эмульсию часть мяса + соединительные ткани + жир + чеснок + соль + черный перец по вкусу.
  7. На Amazon огромный выбор natural hog casings. Я использую Home Pack . Кишки нужно вымочить в теплой воде 45 минут и перед использованием промыть. На этот рецепт уходит приблизительно пол пачки (часть из них может порваться, поэтому лучше замочить с запасом). 

Smoked Blood Sausage | Traeger Grill

Prep Time1 d
Cook Time3 hrs 30 mins
Course: Appetizer, Main Dish
Cuisine: Eastern European
Keyword: blood, blood sausage, buckwheat, pork, smoked, traeger
Servings: 7 lb

Ingredients

  • 1 quart pork blood
  • 2 lb cooked mix of pork head meat, fat, and cartilage
  • 2 lb onion Texas sweet
  • 2 cups buckwheat roasted, cooked
  • 0.5 pack hog casings
  • 1 tbsp salt adjust to taste
  • 1 tbsp black pepper adjust to taste
  • 1 tbsp thyme adjust to taste
  • 1 head garlic adjust to taste

Instructions

Cook the Pig Head

  • Clean the pig head and cook it low and slow. It can be boiled for 8 to 10 hours, or roasted in the oven wrapped in foil (2h/400F + 8h/275F).
  • If the pig head is boiled. Strain and save the stock. Pick the fat, meat, and connective tissues off the bone. Render the fat and reserve.
  • If the pig head is roasted. There will be a lot of rendered fat. Collect and reserve it. Pick the meat and connective tissues off the bones. Scrape the fat off the crispy skin and discard. Use some bones, skin, and both ears to make stock. Strain the stock and reserve. Chop the skin and ears to combine with the rest of the meat.
    Roasted Pig Head
  • In the end, there should be at least 2 cups of rendered fat and about 5 pounds of pig head meat, skin, and connective tissue mixture. Season the mixture with salt, black pepper, thyme, and mashed garlic adjusting their amount to your taste. Blend the mixture into a relatively smooth emulsion. Keep refrigerated in a closed container.

Cook the Buckwheat

  • In a pot, bring 2 cups of the reserved stock to boiling. Season the stock with 0.5 tsp salt and 2 tsp sugar. Add 1 cup of roasted buckwheat and let the water come back to boiling. Reduce the heat to a minimum, cover with a lid, and cook over low heat for 20 minutes. Turn off the heat, add 1 tbsp of reserved fat, cover with a lid, and let steam for another 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork. Keep refrigerated in a closed container.

Cook the Onions

  • Slowly caramelize diced onions in the reserved rendered fat. Strain the fat and reserve it for later. Combine onions and cooked buckwheat.
    Saute onions

To Stuff Blood Sausages

  • Defrost the blood for 6 to 8 hours in the refrigerator.
  • Blend the blood (batch by batch) in a blender at high speed for about 10 sec and strain into a bowl.
  • Place the meat emulsion into a bowl of a stand mixer. Using a K-shaped attachment, stir the mixture and slowly add some blood, little by little. When liquidy enough, change the attachment to the whisk. Continue whisking the mixture and adding the blood until all of it is incorporated. Cover and refrigerate.
    Blood Sausage Emulsified Mix
  • Prepare the sausage stuffer. Soak the hog casing, rinse and keep them in cold water. Stuff the sausages making them 3/4 full.
    Making Blood Sausage
  • Use culinary thread for portioning. Use ice cubes to keep the sausages cold.
    Making Blood Sausage

To Poach Blood Sausages

  • To poach blood sausages, use large diameter saute pans (I use two 14" D saute pans). Place cotton kitchen towels on the bottom, arrange sausages and cover them with cold water. Cotton towels will prevent the sausages from contacting the hot metal and bursting.
    Poaching Blood Sausage
  • Place the pans over low heat and slowly bring water to simmer. It will take about 30 minutes. It's a good idea to flip the sausages once during the cooking. When cooked, remove them from the water into a baking sheet and brush with reserved fat.
    Poached Blood Sausage

To Smoke Blood Sausages

  • Start the Traeger grill, SMOKE mode. Arrange smoking racks if needed.
  • In 15 minutes, arrange the sausages on the rack and smoke for 2 to 3 hours depending on the temperature outdoors.
    Smoking Blood Sausage
  • Let smoked sausages cool to room temperature, brush with more fat, and refrigerate. They are ready to serve. Cold sausages can be vacuum-packed and frozen for longer storage.
    Smoked Blood Sausage
Smoked Blood Sausage